The bloco

Bangalafumenga

Yet again, I cannot say that I really know what was happening during these two weeks. In Trinidad, I was lucky to be learning about Carnival with an academic eye while I participated. But I’ve realized that what I learned in Trinidad is not applicable elsewhere. For example, I didn't meet any fascinating carnaval characters to make deductions about conquest and colonialism here. Black face? Check. White face? Yup, that too. Gender bending and overt sexuality, for sure! But I didn't see much method, just a ridiculous amount of madness. And madness is what Carnaval is all about, right? I can infer, deduct, study as much as I want, but that just prevents me from understanding what Carnaval is really about: "freeing up", as they say in Trinidad.

Rio’s carnaval is known for it’s commercialism. “Traditional” is not the word I've heard to describe the revelry here. “Party” is more like it. The costumes ranged from boring “Boa Director” Tango hats advertising Antartica beer, to blue tulle skirts, to tiny little pastel hats (Peruvian Quechua style), and, of course, men wearing dresses. Lots of oversized plastic sunglasses, chicken/penguin/beer hats and Amy Winehouses. And I wore a lion hat made out of foam, but some guy took it and now I have his "Jewish" hat, which is pretty nice but I would rather my lion.

The Sargento Pimenta Bloco

Where does one wear these costumes? Blocos, neighborhood parties revolving around a theme and live music, spring up all over the city at all hours. There are blocos that begin at 8:00 am, and others that start at 12:00 am. There are blocos on the beach and blocos in the favelas. There are Bob Marley Blocos and Paulino da Viola blocos. There are blocos for children and...blocos that some people bring their children to, even though the heat and drunken crowds make this seem inadvisable. All blocos have beer. “Mini-blocos” are the small parades that pass through the streets in a moment. The popular or traditional blocos, like the Beatles-themed Sargento Pimenta bloco, attract millions of partiers and stay put. This is the side of Carnaval that I saw the most of (you can't avoid it, everywhere you go there's a bloco!), and I will sum it up simply: a big party. Remember that scene in Black Orpheus where people dance and sing by Orpheus as he plays his guitar? I guess that’s where blocos came from, but the ones I went to have a dramatically different (BIGGER) feel.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-KznlNRyjUg&feature=related

The most important lessons I learned: #1 Blocos are only fun with a lot of friends: new or old, doesn't matter. #2 Being a third wheel/woman guarantees that a lot of strange men will try to kiss you. #3 Don't wear your Havainas, that's just stupid. #4 If you drink beer, you're going to have to pee. Plan accordingly. #5 People are going to try to rob you. Don't do stupid things like wear your purse unguarded in back (This I learned from experience!)

NOT a Bloco: Pedra do Sal, a bi-weekly Roda de Samba. My preference.